Steps
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1.Protect the surface
Leave the protective film on until the job is finished. If one face is UV-protected, it is usually marked on the film: keep track of which side faces out.
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2.Thin sheet: shears
Sheet up to about 2mm cuts with tin snips or a guillotine. Cut in one continuous action to avoid a stepped edge.
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3.Thicker sheet: saw
Use a fine-tooth blade at full speed and a steady feed, with the sheet clamped flat and supported on both sides of the cut. A jigsaw handles curves; keep the orbital action off.
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4.Do not laser cut it
Polycarbonate discolours and gives off fumes under a laser. Saw or rout it instead.
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5.Drill oversized holes
Polycarbonate expands with heat more than metal or timber. For anything fixed outdoors, drill holes larger than the screw and use washers so the sheet can move.
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6.Deburr the edge
Scrape or file the cut edge smooth. Unlike acrylic, polycarbonate edges do not polish to a clear finish.
Tips
- Clean with mild detergent; solvents and abrasive pads damage the surface.
- Keep fixings back from the edge and do not over-tighten them.
Drilling polycarbonate
Polycarbonate drills easily and will not crack like acrylic, but it can melt and grab if the bit is slow to clear. Use a sharp high-speed steel bit at moderate speed, back the sheet with timber, and clear the swarf often. For outdoor fixing, drill holes larger than the screw and use washers so the sheet can expand and contract.
Cleaning polycarbonate and its scratches
Clean with lukewarm water, mild detergent and a soft cloth, then rinse. Solvents, alcohol and abrasive cleaners can damage the surface or any UV or hard coating. Polycarbonate is softer than acrylic and does not polish back as well: light scuffs can be improved with a plastics polish, but deep scratches are usually permanent, so protect the surface while you work.